For the Best Possible Steak, Cook It Like the French Do

If you’re looking for an impressive steak dish that’s restaurant-quality but easy to execute at home, this steak au poivre is the recipe for you. Don’t let the French name intimidate you. Instead of beef tenderloin or strip steak which is often traditionally used in this French dish, I opt for flank steak. It’s less expensive and easier to work with, but still a delicious and flavorful cut of beef.

The steak gets the same “au poivre” treatment with a peppercorn crust and creamy pan sauce, but without the stress that accompanies cooking smaller individual steaks. You’ll have an incredibly memorable steak with a rich sauce in just 30 minutes, start to finish.

The Right Cut of Beef

I can’t take full credit for substituting flank steak for filet. The brilliant idea was a suggestion from Matt Moore, author of Butcher on the Block. Since I know we’re all looking for ways to eat well with budget in mind, I asked him for some economical swaps for beef tenderloin. He suggested trying flap steak, hanger steak, or flank steak.

After our email conversation, I knew immediately that flank steak was the route I wanted to take. It’s a familiar ingredient, one my dad taught me how to prepare and I felt comfortable giving it the “au poivre” treatment. 

Tips for Cooking Steak at Home

There are plenty of tips and tricks for cooking steak, but one of the best is something I learned from grilling legend Steven Raichlan. He recommends scoring a flank steak before cooking it since the cut is so lean it tends to curl when introduced to heat, leading to uneven cooking. Making a cross-hatch pattern helps the steak lay flat—now, I never make a flank or skirt steak without prepping it that way.

Another key to success is choosing the right pan. I prefer a large stainless steel, carbon steel, or cast iron pan for searing. All can withstand high temperatures and create a beautiful crust on your steak, but I grab my cast iron pan more often than not.

Finally, know how you’d like your steak cooked. Many lean cuts of beef are served medium-rare, but the amount of time it takes to accomplish that depends on a few factors (thickness, cooking temperature, etc). With so many variables, it can be challenging to know when your steak is at the desired temperature.

That’s why Matt Moore recommends using a digital meat thermometer. Insert it into the thickest part of the steak to get an accurate reading, and “always remember,” he says, “that a steak cooked over high heat in a pan will continue to cook up to 5+ degrees when removed from the pan and resting,” so be sure to allow for that carryover cooking.

Quick Tips

• Choose your peppercorns: Have fun with flavor! There are a variety of peppercorns available, so experiment and have fun. Black peppercorns are traditional, but green are also delicious, or try a blend to make it your own. 
• Prep the ingredients before cooking: Things happen fast in this recipe, so have your ingredients prepped and ready to go before cooking your steak. 
• Slice against the grain: Flank steak is lean, and if cut with the grain, it can be tough and chewy to eat. Instead, find the grain and slice against it or perpendicular to it. Cutting this way cuts the muscle fibers, providing a more tender result.
• Make it a meal: For a classic pairing, serve steak au poivre with homemade pommes frites or baked frozen french fries.

Cross-hatch the steak:

Use a sharp knife to score the steak in a cross-hatch pattern about 1/4-inch deep on one side.

Crack the peppercorns:

Add the peppercorns to a zip-top bag. Remove the air, seal, then crush using a meat mallet or a flat-bottomed skillet until roughly cracked (finely crushed peppercorns will burn). You can also use a mortar and pestle.

Pat the steak dry with a clean paper towel, then season generously all over with salt. Cover the cross-hatched side with the crushed peppercorns, pressing them gently into the meat.

Cook the steak:

Set a 12-inch stainless steel or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat and preheat until nice and hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the pan, then the steak with its uncrusted side down, laying it away from you (to help prevent burning yourself with sizzling oil). Sear, pressing a little to get an even sear but not moving the steak around the pan, for 4 to 8 minutes (depending on the thickness of your steak). Flip so the peppercorn-crusted side is down and cook until the internal temperature reaches 130 to 135°F for medium-rare, 4 to 8 more minutes.

Transfer to a cutting board to rest while you make the sauce. 

Make the sauce:

Carefully wipe out the excess oil and stray peppercorns from the skillet and discard. Set the pan over medium-low heat and add the butter and shallot. Cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the Cognac, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan and cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes.

Add the stock, cream, and thyme and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. The sauce is done when it coats the back of a spoon. Taste, adding salt as needed. Remove the thyme sprig, if using.

Slice the steak against the grain and serve topped with the sauce.

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