Pickled fish: Unpacking a Cape Town Easter tradition

How did pickled fish become a beloved Easter tradition in Cape Town and beyond? This is the story of a classic Cape Malay delicacy...

Pickled fish: Unpacking a Cape Town Easter tradition

Ah, pickled fish. It’s a dish that is synonymous with both Easter and Cape Town culture.

At its core, it consists of pan-fried white fish (usually hake, snoek, kingclip or yellowtail) smothered in curried onions, vinegar, sugar and an assortment of warm spices like masala and turmeric. It pairs well with bread, biryani rice and, as an Easter treat, hot cross buns.

But what are the origins of pickled fish? Let’s take a small dive into the history of this homegrown delicacy:

COLONIAL BEGINNINGS

As per Christian tradition, folks abstain from eating meat on Good Friday. Instead, they opt to eat fish (and buns).

In 1652, the first European settlement in southern Africa was established in Cape Town by the Dutch East India Company (VOC).

The VOC would begin trafficking slaves from across the waters of the Indian Ocean. Among these enslaved persons were Muslim women, many of whom were dab hands at cooking, especially with a variety of spices.

“The first slaves were imported from Batavia (Jakarta), a practice that would continue for well over a century,” wrote Nick Dall in a 2024 piece for Al Jazeera. “Muslim slave women became known for their prowess in the kitchen – slaves who could cook well commanded higher prices.”

IN A PICKLE

As you can imagine, fishermen during this period probably had their hands full obtaining the fish that would be consumed on Good Friday.

However, Christian fishermen who intended to observe the days leading up to Easter were loath to travel out to sea.

One option that they could take was storing fresh catches in brine-filled salt barrels. However, as most accounts agree, they instead pursued another option: pickling the fish in curried sauce. This sauce was prepared by the slave women.

Some folks choose to cook the fish first before mixing it with the curry sauce. Others tend to cook the first in the sauce from the get-go. As for the spices, many people might play around with pre-made spice mixes or put together their own blends.

As you can see, there are many ways to prepare and cook the dish (though we recommend this recipe as a good starter base!). In the end, it depends on your preference.

THE POPULARITY OF PICKLED FISH

Pickled fish has since become a classic staple of Easter celebrations. In Cape Town, especially, where Cape Malay cuisine is deeply ingrained, this dish is a cherished part of the holidays.

In fact, pickled fish has evolved beyond Christian tradition. Due to its mixed heritage, it’s enjoyed by Muslim families and even white households in South Africa.

Today, instead of preparing this meal exclusively at home on Good Friday, you can even buy it at grocery stores all-year round.

Of course, it just hits the spot when eaten during the Easter holidays, a time of togetherness, hope and appreciation for the blessings we have. And that just says everything you need to know about the power of South African food in a nutshell.

Share with us your favourite pickled fish recipes and Easter memories in the comments below!

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