The Hungarian Goulash I Crave All Winter Long

When I was in college in Barcelona, I loved traveling to central Europe throughout the winter. I didn’t miss the cold weather I grew up with in Maine (and still don’t), but I did miss the coziness and especially the comfort foods.

I first encountered goulash at the Stephansplatz Christmas market in Vienna. It was dark and getting too cold to enjoy the market much longer. I sought a warm meal in addition to the cup of mulled wine that was preventing my hands from going numb. The goulash reminded me of my mom’s pot roast with the bonus of a rich and aromatic paprika sauce.

While finishing my degree, I continued sampling goulash in new cities every winter. When I finally made it to Budapest during my junior year, I was surprised to be served a bowl of soup instead of the thick stew I had expected (and later learned is called pörkölt in Hungary).

The rich and flavorful broth of the Hungarian version of goulash won me over. Every spoonful was ultra-savory, sweet, and almost fruity from its copious paprika and scented with the earthy, pungent aroma of caraway. As a soup, it’s less burdened by the imposed seasonality of a stew.

This version is how I make goulash at home, inspired by all the bowls I had in Budapest: a soup, not a stew, with a rich broth infused with paprika and caraway, studded with tender beef, potatoes, and carrots. It’s incredibly comforting and something I crave not just on cold winter days but also during a rainy week in June or any day that requires some soup to feel better.

A Key Ingredient in Hungarian Goulash

One of the main flavor components in goulash is sweet paprika. Make sure to use a good-quality Hungarian brand of paprika if you can find it. It should be fresh—not the long-forgotten jar at the back of the cupboard that we all have—with a vibrant red color and rich sweet pepper flavor.

If you prefer a little heat, you could replace a small amount of the sweet paprika with hot paprika, but don’t use it for the total amount or it will be too spicy. Smoked paprika isn’t the traditional choice but can be used in a pinch.

Make It Vegetarian

When wild mushrooms appear in the markets in the fall, I often make a vegetarian variation of Hungarian goulash. It’s just as savory and comforting and takes slightly less time.

To make mushroom goulash, replace the beef with two pounds of mixed mushrooms. I usually use half wild mushrooms and half cremini mushrooms, but you can use all wild or all cultivated mushrooms, depending on the season. Quarter the cremini mushrooms and chop the wild mushrooms into 1-inch pieces.

Add the mushrooms to the sautéing onions when you’d add the beef, and cook for 10 minutes, until the liquid they release has cooked off. Add the potatoes along with the rest of the vegetables and substitute mushroom or vegetable stock for the beef stock. Reduce the simmer time to 45 minutes total and serve.

Cook the onion:

Heat the oil in a 6 to 7-quart Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, brown the beef:

While the onions are cooking, pat the beef dry with paper towels and season it with 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper. Add the beef to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until no longer pink and browning in spots, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the paprika, garlic, and caraway and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Add the stock and vegetables:

Add the stock, carrots, tomato, bell pepper, bay leaf, remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon of pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer. Cover and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes.

Cook the potatoes:

Add the potatoes to the pot. Cook, uncovered, until the beef and potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper as desired and remove the bay leaf.

Ladle servings into soup bowls, sprinkle with parsley, if desired, and serve with crusty bread for dipping.

Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Love the recipe? Leave us stars and a comment below!